ELEGOO Building Plate for Mars 3 Series LCD 3D Printer with Anti-Slip Hexagon Socket Screws and Sandblasted Surface, Compatible Mars 3 Printer and Mars 3 Pro

Product Information

Please print the "ChiTu Mainboard Specification" gcode file that comes with the original USB flash drive of the printer and then reset Z=0. If one had dealt attentively with the topic, one would have realized that one must print out a spacer with the old platform BEFORE modification, which must be inserted between the flag and threaded spindle. Additionally you need to replace the 2 screws with matching ones, because the original ones are too short, of course. When you encountered this "Buildplate Continues to Press down The LCD After Reaching The Bottom" problem on your ELEGOO 3D printers, or the printer does not recognize the "home" position, please follow the instructions below: Step 1 While sanding your build plate, always use gloves and a mask to avoid inhaling metal particles. Also, most users recommend that you grip your build plate in a way that ensures the pressure across its surface is uniform. For this purpose I used 2 super strong neodymium magnets in the size 20x40x5mm, which I had lying around here and glued them with super glue on the TOP of the platform.

You can rotate the build plate and continue sanding for a more evenly sanded build plate. To know whether your build plate is sanded evenly, you should see the surface has no visible low spots with a uniform surface color. You can easily add rafts to the model in your favorite 3D modeling or slicing software. Here’s how you can add one in Lychee slicer: However, some scratches can cause problems if they are not taken care of. Some scratches have raised edges and burrs, which can damage the FEP sheet and cause issues with the print. The 3DJake Flexible Buildplate System was specially designed for easy removal of the finished parts. Some people take the build plate and put it in the freezer for a few minutes. The cold shrinks the model on the build plate, making it easier to remove.

Step 4: Once the build platform stops, adjust the platform to keep it in the center position. Then fasten the screws with the wrench. Step 6: After the above leveling is complete, set the current Z axis position as the initial height of the first layer position.

If you get that right and the print holds on the flex plate (more on that in a moment), it's a great thing. Some people recommend to put the sandpaper on a flat surface like a glass surface and pass the build plate over it repeatedly until the burrs are gone. Best Resin Build Plate Replacement – Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars & More Run them over the scratches on the build plate and determine where the gloves catch on the plate. This is where you need to remove the burrs. Apart from this, it works pretty well. Most users say it’s quite easy to flex and pop prints off the build plate. ELEGOO Mars Build Plate You can still create your usual supports between the raft and the model since it might be hard to separate the raft and model if created like the picture above.A raft helps prevent the bottom of the model from sustaining damage from the build plate. It takes the hit from the scratches giving the 3D model a smooth surface to build on. the magnet pad can detach from the platform if the glue is dissolved by IPA or similar agents (has happened to me). Most of the time, you can either live with the scratches on your build plate or fix them. But sometimes, the damage might be too extensive, so you’re going to have to replace the build plate. WB Magnetic Base with 3M adhesive resistant to harsh solvents and chemicals like resin, mean green, and isopropyl alcohol If the scratches on your build plate are very deep, or you have gouges or low spots in the plate, you might need to sand it. Sanding removes all the scratches and low spots while giving your build plate additional texture that leads to better print adhesion.

So, after the first layer, the model has a flat, smooth surface to keep printing on. In this situation, the only thing that is affected is the bottom finish of the model. You can always counteract this by using a false bottom, like a raft, on the model.

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To sand your build plate, you first want to clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Then you want to place the 120-grit sandpaper on the flat surface. Next, move the build plate over the sandpaper to remove the scratches and level out the low spots on the plate. This replacement comes with a sandblasted surface that automatically provides the needed texture for build plate adhesion. It also comes with a larger bed leveling hexagonal nut to keep the bed stable and level for longer. To fix a scratched build plate, you can use a raft on your models to avoid the scratches being present on your model. You can also remove the burrs from your build plate by sanding it with 120 & 80-grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Another method is to sand the entire build plate with sandpaper or palm sander.

The ELEGOO build plate is a full-sized replacement for the ELEGOO Mars 2 resin printer series. If your build plate has been damaged beyond repair, you might need this rather than a magnetic sheet. The home function of the printer does not ensure that the last set zero point is directly approached. Instead it works like this: However, a small number of customers have experienced some quality control issues, like the build plate being slightly too big for the printer. As we’ve seen above, scratches don’t make a significant difference for your build plate and may actually help with adhesion. If you do not know this and just hit "home" -the printer tries to approach the absolute zero point with its platform.As a result, this may affect the print quality as it can distort the light image shining through the sheet. To avoid this, you need to remove the burrs from the build plate. This is because the resin printer fills in the scratches on the build plate using the first layer. The first layer cures into the scratches on the build plate, giving the model additional grip on the build plate. Continuous printing with a Double Wham, start another print before you start cleaning the first! The Double Wham contains: After printing, you can easily remove this plate and flex it to get your print off it easily. It’s also made of stainless steel, making it harder to scratch or gouge its surface, giving it a higher lifespan. If the Z-axis can stop normally, it means that the limit switch can be triggered without any problem, but the limit switch stopper is too short to trigger the limit switch when the build plate is installed on the printer. You can put a 1-2mm spacer between the screws and the limit switch stopper as shown in the below pictures to fix this problem. (the limit switch stopper is at the bottom of the z-axis connecting shaft)